Tuesday, August 18, 2009

The North Woods

Lisa and I made the long trek up to northern Wisconsin, driving from Maryland to Cleveland (six hours), and then on up through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan into Wisconsin (thirteen hours). The U.P. offered Lisa her first glimpses of a strange and new land much like the midwest she once knew, only farther north and with a peculiar culinary delicacy - Pasties, an old fisherman's meal of meat and vegetables wrapped in dough. The "Pasties For Sale" stands speckled the dunes of the U.P., appearing only after, and never before, driving across the Mackinac Bridge, the third longest suspended bridge in the world stretching five miles across Lake Michigan.






Lighthouse at Manistique, Upper Peninsula of Michigan.


Our Great Lake Michigan!!!

We were traveling to Eagle River, Wisconsin, where many of my family's roots began with my great-grandfather Joseph Weber moving his family, including my grandmother, to the area in 1917. My grandmother, Martha Weber (Judge), now 95 years old, has always returned to live there every summer and fall while spending the winters in Milwaukee. The original farm house and barn are still there, though she has lived for many years just down the road from it along the Wisconsin River in a small cabin my grandfather built. Through the words of my grandma as published by the Eagle River Historical Society:

"We arrived by train and were met by Norman Kinney, who unfortunately was bitten in the leg by our family dog. He drove us in his horse and buggy to our land located on a rutted, nameless dirt road which is today known as Illinois and Drager Roads. The house's exterior was red tin brick siding. The outside pump was out source of water and kerosene lanterns were our source of light. The kitchen wood stove and the potbelly stove in the living room heated the home. There was no heat upstairs and there were times in the winter when we would wake up in the morning with frost on our blankets. We would quickly run downstairs and dress in front of the wood stoves."

My great grandfather, having bought the land sight-unseen for farming, quickly found out the land was not fit for making a living off of. They were able to grow only enough for themselves, supported by subsistence fishing in the Eagle and Wisconsin Rivers. Eventually, Joseph Weber was forced to find work for his/our family by working in the Wisconsin/Minnesota lumber camps. As Lisa was to find out, the two traditions of fishing and lumberjacks were huge influences on northern Wisconsin, from the historically fascinating to the kitschy decorating of restaurants and pubs (i.e. paintings on saws and canoe paddles of moose, ducks, and especially fish). I had traveled to the San Juan Islands with Lisa and her family to experience her childhood retreat that was so impressionable on her, and now she was going to experience where my family and I were linked together, in Eagle River, Wisconsin. I was also planning on properly initiating her by the ol' welcome "push in the river" gesture.


Our Eagle River home.


View of the Wisconsin River from our tent on my grandma's property.


Our 1950's vintage low cruising sweet rides, previously owned by mom and uncle.


A painting of a lumber mill by a turn of the century mill worker - taken from the Eagle River Historical Society.

Family history aside, here's Lisa to tell you what we actually did during our week in the North Woods: We camped on a soft bed of pine needles on the far point of Martha's property, frequented by eagles with a fine view of the Wisconsin River that reflected a variety of moods on a daily basis. At night we dined on delicious walleye tackled out of the river by Mike's mom, a 28 inch long beauty, expertly and delicately cooked in a light batter that fed four people two nights in a row! The dessert was blueberry pie (actually three of them over a week!), with berries picked in Martha's backyard by Aunt Cathy and cooked by Mary Ellen. The conversation flowed over a particularly delicious Wisconsin brew, Fat Squirrel, made by the New Glarus brewery, and I enjoyed hearing about the history of the area from Martha and stories about when she was young. Kayaking was our sport of choice and we meandered down Rice Crick (covered in wild rice) and Mud Crick, tributaries of the Wisconsin River. We also traveled North to the U.P. to the Sylvania Wilderness to kayak the remote Helen Lake that was occupied only by a family of otters (I've never seen one in the wild!) that we were lucky enough to watch nab fish and eat them in front of us, barking at us and playing all the while. We also caught a glimpse of a HUGE beaver and a pair of lonely loons that watched us with their red eyes. SWEEEET TRIPPP!!! Ohh yeah - we also saw a flower that was on my 'bucket list' of flowers to see before I 'kick the bucket' = Indian Pipe, a plant that lives off a parasitic fungus that in-turn lives off the roots of oaks and pine. They turn black and wither away when you pick them, so best to leave them for others to wonder at...


Kayaking the Wisconsin River in front of my grandma's house.


Lisa, Paul and Babe in Sayner, Wisconsin, getting ready to spend a day of logging up in the U.P.


Evening on Rice Crick.


My destiny complete, I catch an 18 inch walleye and enter the final realm of manhood.


Lisa's trophy kill (he didn't really die).


An eastern painted turtle sunning on a bull-lily pad.


In the woods of my grandma's property.


Where the Indian Pipe roam, next to our cabin.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Summer in the Sound

The adventure continued on Lopez Island after the Appalachian Trail this summer as mentioned in the last post. Some of the pictures we took in Lopez were too good not to share in our adventure blog.


Flying to Seattle with Mount Rainier in the distance.

From the mainland, you can take a 45 minute ferry from Anacortes to Lopez Island. Mike painted some cool interior light studies on the ride and we taught baby Henry to fly just in case Peter Pan decides to borrow him for the evening.


Loading onto the ferry to Lopez Island.


Everyone was impressed when Steve Simmons managed to catch a young manta ray with his bare hands from the top-deck of the ferry. Here he is swimming.


Inside Lisa's grandfather's house - I mean inside the ferry.

Lopez is the most rural of all the San Juan Islands, covering over 35 square miles and it has a population of around 2,200 who are all closer to heaven. There are many gorgeous farms and a stellar farmers market but also plenty of artist, musicians and general bohemian types.

Lopez is also known as the friendliest of all the San Juan's. You can always tell a native by the classic two finger wave that I learned from my grandpa.

Lopez has plenty of public beaches. We visited Shark Reef and observed the land lubbing seals. Mike and his buddy Tom shimmied down some rock-sides and heard barnacles hissing ancient truths while the kelp forests swayed in the current breezes.

Stay tuned for the next posting which will be from Eagle River, Wisconsin, Mike's family retreat!
Ahoy maytees!


Our heroes, remaining mild-mannered under the guise of unemployment, enjoy the Northwestern weather.


At the base of Lisa's grandfather's property looking out over the sound.


Several amazing starfish were hanging out among the rocks at low tide, when one said to another,"Hey buddy, you ever think that maybe the tide won't come back this time?" to which the other starfish exclaimed, "AHHH! A talking starfish!?!?"


Moments later, we gaped, gasped and stared as Lisa's sister, Laura, was swallowed by an orca trying to retrieve some souvenir bull-kelp (see below).


Bull-Kelp.


Pictured: One-third of the official three-time state winning Maryland yelling champions. (Mike,Tom, and Waldo).


Our mystery lunch-guest is revealed! Mr. Mistoffelees emerges from a quiet life of retirement on Lopez Island to offer dining suggestions to Tom.


The Oregon Junco, aka the Ol' Northwest-Salty-Grizzled-Mariner Bird

Saturday, July 11, 2009

The end is just the beginning





The fact that I'm writing this with a beagle's head in my lap, watching Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets in Harrisburg, PA will probably lend you the hint that I am no longer on the AT. Mike, now bereft of his ticket to Valhalla (beard) is sitting next to me so that will lead you to believe that he isn't hiking up steep inclines, wiping away spiderwebs in Nike running shorts while itching mosquito bites either. But, of course, we both wish we still were tickling the backbone of the Appalachians with our worn out hiking shoes... I shall now begin the tale of the end of our hike, starting where I left off last time.

After Bears Den, we trekked through the eroded vestiges of once awesomely tall mountains and were rewarded with views quite different from the sister mountains that we already visited further south.



The valley's of Virginia spread out before us and the farmlands divided up by fences, rivers and roads like a giant jigsaw puzzle of greens, yellows and browns depending on the growth season of the crop being planted.



Battlefields such as Antietam were visible from rocky outcrops that went by names such as Weverton Cliffs, Annapolis Rocks and Raven's Cliffs. During the evening hours the shelters were more crowded than the South, evidence of higher population densities in the area and easier, more gentle hiking terrain.







Please enjoy this interesting picture above of a beetle on a tree fungus. We were lucky to see some of the first lightning bugs - also reminding us that their namesake was threatening constantly from the skies. Indeed Mike and I had to run, sometimes miles, to get to a shelter in order to escape the earth shaking thunder and viscious lightning storms that were going to stick around for good. These storms were the reason we decided, after a few days into the Shenandoah, to retreat back to dry roofs in order to plan our future life-paths. In typical Appalachian style, during the last downpour-day we waded through in Shenandoah, we were rewarded with the sight of a brilliant-red Northern Red Salamander, a beautiful and elusive creature that was glowing like a jewel in our path. The guy had come out because of the rain and would likely not be seen in other weather conditions. If we hadn't sweated and cursed our way through the storm, we wouldn't have had the supreme pleasure of seeing the salamander.

It was with wet tent, shoes, and well, everything that we piled into a taxi-van that took us to a small town in Virginia from which we then took an AMTRAK train back to Maryland. After Maryland (Mikes abode), we drove to PA from which we left for Lopez Island, WA for the Simmons family reunion, plenty of bald eagle sightings, motor bike rides around San Juan (the largest of the San Juan islands), a salmon bake and hippy parade, lavender fields, and of course, a 12 mile walk around the island to remind us that we still had our hiking feet! This trip also included a dance contest involving the Simmons' family girls. My mom and aunt Marianna won with their rendition of 'The Jerk', a painful looking giration that was apparently popular in the 70s. Because of this, I have decided that given the opportunity of time travel, I will NOT visit the 70s. Now we're back and in Harrisburg watching Mike sister Ann's two adorable dogs Simon and Oliver for the weekend. On Monday I'll be headed out to Stroudsburg, PA to work as an apprentice on the Josie Porter Farm, a biodynamic farm that hosts the 80-member Cherry Valley CSA for the summer/autumn growing season and harvest. Interestingly, the AT runs through the farm's property! Mike will be working on a host of commissions for patrons across the US and completing grad school applications and possibly applying to some artist residencies. So, we'll be apart for a time now, but hopefully we'll be able to reunite and join forces once again, after I've got a season of farm work in me and Mike has a new body of work to unveil to the universe.



The Original Appalachian Gang


Lisa and Mike - signing off for now...more adventures to come!

Thursday, June 11, 2009

454.5 and counting!

It is with a belly full of Ben and Jerry's Mint-Cookie icecream, half a large supreme pizza, some lemonade, Sprite and a few chunks of beef jerky that I write you this blog entry. This conglomeration of food may seem repulsive to some, but to the hiker it is a fat/calorie packed, uncomfortably delightful mixture that will fuel our drained energy reserves and prepare us for 16+ mile-days of hiking where we will burn an average of 4-5,000 calories - 2x a normal day. And, because I'm eating like this, it will also clue you in to the fact that Mike and I are back on the trail - 'SoBo' - or southbound in AT terminology. Mike's parents dropped us off in Blue Ridge Summit, PA five days ago (thanks again for the ride, delicious apples and even more delicious dinners Mary Ellen and Dick!). We can now check off Georgia, NC/TN, Maryland and West Virginia off our lists.

We're now in Virginia, Bear's Den Rocks Hostel to be exact. This place is very cool, built right out of the surrounding rocks and originally run as a summer home for wealthy folks who paid high dollar to stay here and take in the view of the Virginia countryside while hanging out in the petting zoo on site and listening to the wife of the owner sing Wagner operas (apparently she did this while hiking, too - probably would scare away all the wildlife - I wouldn't hike with the lady). Now it's run by a young couple (thru-hikers 2x) and their little girl (Hikling) who runs around laughing and playing while we talk, eat, shower and eat more.

Harpers Ferry was a great history lesson for us nerdy lore buffs. We learned all about John Brown and how the Civil War 'began' in this little town that sits above the intersection of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers - it's a hell of a climb out of it though - especially in a hail storm (ouch).

Thomas Jefferson said of the view from his favorite rock adjacent to Harpers Ferry that, "The passage of the Patowmac through the Blue Ridge is perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in Nature. You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Patowmac in quest of a passage also. In the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time, that the mountains were formed first, that the rivers began to flow afterwards, that in this place particularly they have been so dammed up by the Blue Ridge of mountains as to have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that, continuing to rise, they have at last broken over at this spot and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disruptions and avulsions from their beds by the most powerful agents in nature, corroborate the impression."

I think the view of the pizza for dinner was better, but... Mike and I also got our pictures taken at the Appalachian Trail Conference Headquarters (the mothership of the AT) as 'eventual thru-hikers' and Mike talked with the folks working there about the artwork he's been creating of the wonders we've seen along 'the trail' - good networking :)

So, now Mike has more paintings and drawings in his sketchbook and I have more pictures of wildflowers (all of which I will be reading about tonight - medicinal uses and biology) and handstands on rocks. We have all that and the incredible gift of being able to put our feet on the sublime (and soggy) gardens of the earth for three more weeks.

Special shout-out to my dad. Can't wait to hang out with you on Lopez and thanks for driving up to see Mike and I after work - it meant alot and it was so good to see you. Thanks also for the support (on the trail and in 'real life'). Soak up some sun for me in Puerto Rico. Laura - so glad you're coming to Lopez!

Mary Ellen and Anne - Buon viaggio and enjoy your awesome trip to Italia!

Shenandoah here we come!!!

Lisa signing out

Saturday, June 6, 2009

AT Fire Towers

Here are some views from fire towers along the AT, once used for (you guessed it) look outs for forest fires and beat poets. Because Kerouac and Ginsberg no longer walk the earth and because of airplanes, the fire towers are no longer used, but lucky hikers can still climb up their rickety metal stairs and gaze out at the heart stopping views.











Flip Flop, Sort Of

Like many explorers and adventurers, Mike and I have decided to alter our course in order to accommodate an illness, the Appalachian God of Rain (*I shall not name him for fear of his wrath), and a dwindling monetary situation. I will first let Mike, the unhappy receiver of a happy colony of bacteria, describe the situation from his own skinny perspective:

"Twenty pounds lighter and later, my curse lifted, and finally some sunshine - my body had to leave the trail and now will return. Of the former, I somehow managed to consume contaminated water, likely in town where we weren't purifying our sources, and became ill in the mountains after walking up Unaka Mountain in hypothermic conditions. We managed to conclude the night in a warm tent, but I became afflicted with violent fevers. We walked eight miles the following morning with my fever worsening and vertigo setting in. We boarded in at the Mountain Harbor Hostel in Tennessee where for three days I sweated out the fever. Then, the bug unexpectedly shifted to my gut, and I became preoccupied with getting to know my insides for days. Test results are still awaiting a name for this beast (or possibly THE BEAST?), but after a week without appetite or sleep (from my busy meetings), and not knowing whether or not a relapse of the bug would occur, we had to leave the trail, having walked 400 miles of the Southern Appalachians to Virginia's back door.

BUT.......Now - having eaten lots of food, regaining my sleep and strength, we are heading back out, though not where we left our journey. The new goal is to meet our departure point, beginning by walking Maryland, West Virginia, and on south through Virginia's Shenandoah National Forest. Yes, dear friends, we will be a-walking, walking with a ferocity that can only be found in the hearts of scalywags, thieves, storytelling murder-creeping pirates, and..... hikers. Because now, and I will enjoy writing this with a smirk, it is personal."

Sums it up nicely I think - thank you Mr. Marks. Now we gain the perspective of the "south-bounder" and we can check off two of the most beautiful National Parks the south eastern US has to offer. This flip-flop was unexpected but necessary and we will be back on the trail tomorrow morning. I'm excited to learn more from the earth and to emphasize this point I will leave you with a quote from the Tao of Pooh by Benjamin Hoff, a book I read while Mike was languishing in the hostel watching shoot em' up movies between bathroom breaks:

"Lots of people talk to animals," said Pooh.
"Maybe, but..."
"Not very many LISTEN, though," he said.
"That's the problem," he added."

Now, back to listening and it's time for you guys to do some looking - HERE YA GO!


Sunset after the rain on the Nolichucky River.


The tree of knowledge.


Mike passed out and sick as a dog at Iron Mountain Gap before a shuttle picked us up.


Big Bald - aka gateway to Scotland.


Soft and beautiful evening light after the rain.


Mountain Laurel gracing the trail before the descent into Erwin, TN.

Friday, June 5, 2009

PICTS UP!

We've got pictures up now. I've updated past entries with pictures (see the Smokies and the 'Things that crawl...' entries) and added some new ones. The new title image is from Max Patch.

Max Patch: Bald and Beautiful

Some pictures from Max Patch, a bald that spans the NC/TN border along the AT and gives the lucky traveller a 360 degree view of all the mountains in the universe (at least it seems like it). The pictures pretty much say it all. The mountain is a naturally occurring bald, scientifically unexplainable for the absence of trees - today it is kept clear of trees by mechanical mowing, however. We heard Bob White Quail and Banjo Music up here. During sunset and sunrise no one spoke because the experience took the words out of our mouths. We spent the night up here, enduring 40 mph winds and temperatures in the mid-30's. OF COURSE it was worth it!